Tuesday, July 28, 2009

20.21

Fusion – it’s a concept one would normally expect from an art museum, bringing together contemporary and classic pieces to create an interesting space of contrasting styles. But this theme isn’t exclusive to the rooms of the museum, because at any given moment chef Asher Miller is creating fusion himself - both mincing ginger from Asia and prepping pork from Minnesota’s Fischer Farms, creating the highly-beloved potstickers. 20.21 brings Asian style cuisine in contact with Midwestern ingredients and gets Minnesotans to think about the culinary possibilities that can come out of the land of meat-and-potatoes. And there’s no better person to be leading this endeavor than chef Asher Miller.


Photo by Chris Bohnhoff

Combining influences and experiences is no strange thing to Miller. His road includes time at Carleton College, a culinary arts school, a start-up restaurant called Fermentations, and the Twin Cities’ own Barbette. Coming from the tradition and training of classic French cuisine, it was the transition between Fermentations and Barbette where he gained a knack and appreciation for more healthy and veggie-centric dishes. “That was a great educational experience, having the challenge of cooking for vegetarians,” he said. It’s no surprise that the brightly flavored menu of 20.21 (basil, ginger, chilies) attracted him when he saw the Wolfgang Puck ad for a kitchen manager on Craigslist. From there, Miller worked his way up to where he is now influencing the menu and overall vibe of the restaurant. 20.21’s open kitchen allows diners to be visually connected to the preparation of their food. And when you visit, don’t be afraid to stop and say ‘hi’ to Asher while he’s assembling your Thai Basil Chicken Lettuce Cups– he doesn’t mind the company.

Considered the most ‘fine-dining’ of Puck’s Asian restaurants and the first to be in a museum, 20.21 has its unique characteristics. Although Puck decides the menu for each of his restaurants, he gives each local chef the ability to decide where their food comes from. Miller said buying from local purveyors is actually a corporate mandate, and it was only good news to Miller as it meant he’d be dealing with extremely fresh ingredients. “The quality is the best thing about it,” he said. Miller said buying locally is becoming increasingly easier in Minnesota. “There used to be 2 or 3 guys that used to show up with a van,” he said. Some local purveyors include the Midwest Salad company (Waseca, MN), Wild Acres (Pequot Lakes, MN), and Fischer Farms (Waseca, MN).


Photo by Chris Bohnhoff

Aside from the food, its location in the Walker Art Center, provides a stunning view of a most-beautiful part of the Minneapolis. Located near the merge of Hennepin and Lyndale Avenues, the museum and the restaurant connect both aesthetic and gastronomic pleasures, serving Asian styles with French service and Minnesota-grown ingredients. It’s a sure experience for all the senses.

-Melinda Feucht

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