restaurant Max by Jack Fischer (finickyfish.blogspot.com)

Tonight is a night of firsts for me. I had been anticipating my first visit to restaurant Max for a few weeks now. Awarded "Best New Restaurant 2009" by the Minneapolis-St. Paul Magazine, restaurant Max has been on my list of places to eat for a little while now. Their website touts a "commitment to you thru fresh, innovative foods, beverages, and service...". Well I I'm ready to put that to the test.

I was introduced to the Sample Circuit back in November when I attended the Affair at the Convention Center. Sample Circuit events were described to me as, "an experience with a private tasting menu from some of the fanciest places in town." Yeah, this is just up my alley!

Walking in it was a little like a first date. If you've never been, restaurant Max was once a bank. And not just any bank, but a large classic bank. Think: the heist scene from the movie “Heat.” Beautiful granite columns and granite walls. All of this very classic styling with a slightly modern art deco feel.

The first character that we met in the evening was one of my favorites. Enter Kevin from MVP Wines. Kevin was like our personal sommelier. More than once during the evening, I heard him referred to as a mad scientist of wine. Kevin personally selected wine parings for many of the dishes that we would sample throughout the evening. We started out with a rosé but Kevin had us taste "his rosé", then a light red, and then the rosé again. He was trying to show us the unique flavors of this rosé that are highlighted after our taste buds are woken up a little. This little experiment didn't disappoint and Kevin – not the only time in the evening – was strangely accurate in his description and our reactions. I wonder if he does parties...

My fabulous date for the evening and I found a little booth to share with some new friends, they were just like us, new to the Sample Circuit and excited about the experience. That's only where the conversation began. One of our table mates was an avid Harley enthusiast and the other raises huskies for sled dog racing. Seriously, of all the gin joints in all the world.

Our first tasting of the evening was Deviled Eggs with Smoked Salmon and Fine Herbs. There was a perfect mix of texture and flavor, something about the yolk of the egg and the salt of the salmon was delish. It was a little like breakfast but with win so it was better. Next along our journey was the Champagne Potato Soup with Truffle Emulsion. I like food, don't get me wrong. But I wanted to swim in this stuff…it was amazing! You are a fool if you don't go out right now, try this, and buy a second bowl to take home and have for a midnight snack. Seriously.

Our second visit to Kevin began with chewing on a sprig of rosemary. Seriously, where does this come from?!But that followed by the nice glass of Domaine Henri Milan "Le Grand Blanc", yup, the scientist did it again. It was a strange combo but it just worked, he found a way to bring out the flavor even if it meant gnawing on garnish.

I made a few more friends throughout the evening – a software developer and a professional photographer both friendly, interesting and full of good conversation. I overheard a few others who referred to the poor Gnocchi as ganache (as in chocolate ganache) and ganocchi (the addition of an "a", pronounced "ga-nocchi"). OK, I get that not everyone is an expert, but this definitely made me feel a little more comfortable with this new crowd.

A little bit later in the evening, I was introduced to a very nice man named Nick. I've known a few Nick's in my time, all of them stand up guys. This Nick was no exception. But with a small twist this Nick - Nick O'Leary - is also the Executive Chef of restaurant Max. Nick was very humble, maybe even a little shy at first. But after a few minutes (and a nice glass of white), what he was not shy about is showing us around the place a little, starting with a tour of his kitchen. I've seen quite a few hotels and quite a few meetings rooms in my career, and more scary kitchens then I'd like to mention. Nick's kitchen is one I'm glad to talk about. It was impeccably clean, right down to the four walk-in’s and decked-out employee break room. There is something comforting about that to me.

After strolling through a few unmarked hallways and out an unmarked door we ended up back on the main floor and we headed into the...err…bank-vault-turned-wine-cellar. Again, the character of the old building stood out here. Nick told us that several brides and grooms have shared their first meals as married couples in that very room. The dark stained wood with wine bottles stacked all over. The original pass through vault window heavy metal swinging bank vault door all where they should be. So cool! This is also where I learned that Nick and I are both fans of some of the same dive bars and the Champagne Potato Soup mentioned above is his personal creation.

One thing I noticed throughout the evening, every time I was ready for my next little nibble, there was someone with a smile and a plate full of something new. The wait staff was ideal. Each was able to describe their sampling platters with great detail. And remembering that you are serving a “Fried Oyster with Celery Root, Horseradish, and Creme Friache” I can see where someone might slip up. Kelly the GM of restaurant Max stopped over just to see how our evening was going. We had nothing but praise for her and her team.

The more that I chatted with all my new friends the more I realized that how much fun I was really having. At the end of the day were all here for the same reason, we all wanted a little good food and a something nice to drink. I think that I can speak for everyone in attendance got more than expected.


Speaking of food I would be cheating everyone if I didn't mention my favorite of the evening. The Harissa Marinated Pork Shoulder with Barely Risotto made with Citrus Butter. The Pork fell apart with the touch of the my fork and the Harissa (a type of chili sauce) added a hint of smokiness and a tiny bit of heat. And there was more to follow that, including dessert.

Its hard to put a price on our evening. My date and I started discussing how unique the evening was. Where else can you go and experience a dozen amazing dishes, each with a wine that has been careful paired, and have the opportunity to share and discuss the of flavors with a few people you know and a few more that you don't. It was simply an perfect evening. I, for one, will be back to both the Sample Circuit and to restaurant Max!

Jack Fischer is a self proclaimed life blogger, a real life geek, and an all round 'nice guy'. He's a businessman and a photographer by trade. In his spare time he loves to tell stories. Visit his blog: finickyfish.blogspot.com

Related Links:
restaurant Max 215 Fourth Street Minneapolis, MN 55401 (612) 340-0303
http://www.therestaurantmax.com/ | twitter: restaurantMax | facebook: restaurantMax
http://samplecircuit.com/ | blog: samplecircuit

Executive Chef, Nick O'Leary - restaurant Max

photos courtesy of Noah Wolf Photography

It has only been a few months since Executive Chef Nick O’Leary took the helm of the restaurant Max kitchen. His tenure began in July 2008 as a sous chef under the opening chef, Matthew Holmes. It was not long before Chef Nick was promoted to the executive sous chef position. This past December, after the departure of Kevin Kathman, Chef Nick accepted the opportunity to lead the team.

Chef Nick’s first job was in a restaurant. At fifteen, he accepted a position as a bus boy at a truck stop restaurant near his family farm. When asked what attracted him to the role, he laughed, “My mom made me [get the job].”

The young chef was born and raised on a farm in Denmark, Wisc. His family raised dairy cows, chickens and geese. When asked what he learned from his rural upbringing, Chef Nick didn’t pause, “I learned discipline and a good work ethic - my mom is a great cook, I was exposed to fresh, delicious food early on.” The Chef didn’t try to hide the smile when he thought about his favorite dishes growing up, “Baking Soda Dumplings with Pork Hocks and Caraway Gravy, and Sauerkraut… oh, and Boiled Dinner (braised pork roast with potatoes and carrots).”

Not long after finishing high school, he moved to Milwaukee. He took a serving position at Tumbleweeds, a causal family concept that was popular throughout the Midwest. It was there that he truly got a taste for the things he loves about restaurant work. “Even then I was a bit of a foodie. I spent my spare time hanging out in the [kitchen] window watching the food come out.”

Like many great adventures, inspiration can come from odd, unexpected places. Late one night, after work, he was lying on his couch watching television when a commercial for Le Cordon Bleu in Minneapolis aired. Six weeks later Nick broke his lease, left Milwaukee and started culinary school in Minneapolis. While he was in school, he took a line cook position at the Palomino Club. “The most important and practical lesson that I learned in [culinary] school was layering. It is so important to season each component to the dish throughout the cooking process.”

On his time off (which, it seems is rare), he goes to one of his favorite neighborhood haunts. He mentioned several, but to name a few: Whitey’s, Quang (for those who have been, he orders the 503) and Saffron are among his favorites.

photos courtesy of Noah Wolf Photography

When given the choice of an indispensable item in the kitchen, Chef Nick said, “Red Bull”. As those who have worked in the industry know, the hours that chefs put in can be excessive. “In many ways, my colleagues are my family. We spend more time together than we do with anyone else. You have to be truly passionate about what you do to be successful in this industry, and surrounding yourself with talented people who you trust is a necessity.”
Chef Nick was recently promoted to the Executive Chef role from the executive sous chef position. He is launching a new menu, inspired by spring, at the end of this month. Roasted Halibut with Mushroom Duxcelle, Asparagus, Tomato Vinaigrette and Sunchokes on just one of the mouth watering selections he described to me.

With an obvious passion, and an easy smile, Chef Nick seems prepared to take on the challenges that come with his new leadership role. It will be exciting to see the impression he makes on the restaurant Max menu in the months to come. You can get a taste of it by joining us at the Sample Circuit event tomorrow (March 9th, 2010) at restaurant Max. You can get your tickets by clicking here.

photos courtesy of Noah Wolf Photography

Sample Circuit 2010 at the Affair

If you missed the Affair, you missed one incredible weekend of events. The Minneapolis Convention Center was filled to the brim with unique ideas, and inspiration for all things involved in home entertaining. Attendees experienced everything from a seminar about “Entertaining the “Raw” Way” by Pure Market Express to a “Fashion Meets Confection” style show, featuring looks created by the U of M fashion design students and Le Cordon Bleu culinary students.

The Star Tribune Taste Kitchen featured a step by step tutorial on how to choose and carve your Thanksgiving turkey, hosted by Wild Acres Game Farm, located in Pequot Lakes, MN. Executive Chef Asher Miller of 20.21 demonstrated the proper technique for carving the holiday's "main attraction". Pat Ebnet, owner of Wild Acres, led a discussion with local chefs (Asher Miller - 20.21, Mike Decamp - La Belle Vie and Marshall Paulson - Birchwood Cafe), about each of their individual recommendations on how to prepare a perfect Thanksgiving turkey. (Interesting note: when asked, each chef admitted to being responsible for the turkey at their respective dinners and each of them was planning to prepare a Wild Acres turkey.)

In the Vault, the Affair’s premium wine tasting experience, guests discovered the keys to pairing wines with cheese with guidance from Minneapolis’ own, Patrick the Cheese Guy. The Style, offered insight into the season’s hottest fashions (both for home and person), all while seated at some of the most breathtaking tables designed by members of the Twin Cities Chapter of the International Special Events Society (ISES).

On Saturday night, the Hotel Ivy welcomed attendees for the Progressive, an appropriately named “progressive” dinner featuring Wild Acres Duck and Turkey as well as gourmet truffle oil courtesy of Bistro Blends. The evening ended on the third floor with a live auction benefiting People Serving People, desserts and dancing.

At the Expo, Sample Circuit announced five of the ten Sample Circuit events scheduled for the 2010 season including:

Restaurant Max

Moto-I

The Loring Kitchen & Bar

20.21

St. Paul Grill

Tickets are available by clicking HERE.

Check back often, the additional five Sample Circuit events will be announced over the next couple of months.

We can't wait to get started sampling our way through some of the best restaurants the Twin Cities has to offer!

We'll see you in 2010!

Sample Circuit presents: The Entertaining Home, Volume 6

Kitchens Within Reach

Speaking from one passionate food lover to another, I am here to tell you that a new kitchen is within reach now more than ever before. I started designing kitchens when times were thriving - people were living in excess - throwing every appliance and two islands into their kitchens. I was designing in LA then and relocated to Sawhill Custom Kitchens in Minneapolis a year and a half ago. Times have definitely changed… but this isn’t a bad thing! There are numerous reasons why attaining your dream kitchen is smarter, quicker and makes more sense than ever before.


At this point, it is finally advantageous to take out a loan, invest in your home, and save time and money while doing it. Interest rates are at new lows. Contractors have gone back to pricing that we haven’t seen since Y2K - and the good ones are actually available! They are eager and willing to start on your new kitchen. With that eagerness comes improved customer service and quicker project completion. Reduced prices and lead times are also available on that custom cabinetry you’ve been dreaming of. Rebates on appliances, countertops and other materials are being offered like never before. Are you ready to entertain in a beautiful and functional newly remodeled kitchen? Wait no longer!

The shift in the economy has also shifted our concern to where our money ends up. Investing in local products and people not only betters the local community, but is environmentally green as well. Here at Sawhill, we take pride in the fact that we keep our products within reach. We have three cabinet lines, all with different price levels, and all made within a 500 mile radius - one of them is only an hour away! Locally made countertops, tile and other materials that are extremely unique and well-crafted are also available. Your new kitchen will not only cost you less right now, but you can give back to your community as well.



Beyond being financially and locally within reach, a new kitchen should literally be within reach. With all of the latest gadgets and accessories, it is easier than ever to make your gourmet kitchen your “Sous Chef.” When I’m cooking, I like everything at my fingertips. When I’m designing, I get into the routine of the client so that I can make sure everything is at theirs. For Baby-Boomer foodies who are looking to age-in-place- ergonomics, heights of appliances and ease-of-use should always be considered. Now that people are staying in their homes longer, making kitchens uniquely functional should be a top priority.

The list of why now is the best time to remodel could go on forever… I’ve never had so many clients interested in gardening, composting and getting back into their homes and back to the basics - quite the change from five years ago. True foodies like ourselves can all appreciate the shift! We’re seeing the same trends in restaurants - chefs are growing their own veggies, supporting local producers and spreading the organic love. Why not bring this trend into our own homes? Isn’t it time for you to attain your “Kitchen Within Reach?”

When you’re ready, you can find me right down the road at Sawhill.

Sarah Michalowski, CKD
sarah@sawhillkitchens.com
Sawhill Custom Kitchens & Design, Inc.

Sample Circuit Presents: The Entertaining Home, Volume 5

Creating a Green Kitchen Appropriate for You

Green is arguably the buzzword of the day, and not just in the world of design. We are bombarded by the media with examples of just how far one can go to be good to our environment. From the sources of our food, the way we travel, how we teach our children to live and the products we buy. It can be overwhelming at times, and if we get too caught up in the messages, it can seem as if we can never do enough. An essential thing to remember is that we make a difference with each individual choice, and for each of us there are different appropriate ways to make that difference. If you’re reading this blog, food and the preparation of it are important to you, and I’m willing to bet that’s a great way to start. It will be an easier area to get passionate about and you’ll feel more like you’ve made a difference than if your first Green steps are in an area you aren’t so involved in. Being a foodie, your kitchen is probably the one room you dream of recreating more than any other, and here are some ways to achieve your desired space while being friendly to Mother Nature.

Let’s start with appliances. The default thinking is that energy consumption is key, and that is true. These days with most major appliances meeting the rigorous standards of Energy Star, we have other considerations for Green appliance choices. If you’ve spent the time and effort to select natural, healthy ingredients, why not ensure they last until that delicious meal or celebratory dinner party by installing the best appliances? The latest choices in professional refrigeration for the home offer antimicrobial filters, eliminate odors and absorb ethylene gasses that increase the rate of spoiling. Induction cooktops are not just a novel knew technology; their unheard of efficiency makes them a very Green choice, with approximately 97% of the energy used going directly into the heating of the food itself. Steam ovens offer not only healthier cooking, but make an excellent microwave alternative by reheating with moisture to make those leftover morsels from the night before just as tasty as the first time you served them.

Countertops are another prominent surface that has many choices with Green benefits. From recycled glass to recycled paper to stainless steel that is completely recyclable if the countertops become obsolete, the choices in this area alone could fill a sizable blog. No matter what your style or color, there’s a Green countertop available for you.

Cabinetry is my favorite area of Green design. What material choice has a bigger presence in your kitchen than the cabinetry? Rapidly renewable wood species are breeds of wood that grow much more rapidly than our usual Oak, Cherry or Maple, and thus we’re not depleting an old-growth forest when we specify them. Rapidly renewable choices include Lyptus (a member of the Eucalyptus family), Bamboo and Kirei (made from sorghum straw). If those aren’t to your liking, specify wood from an FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified source, which ensures that the wood has been harvested responsibly, without clear-cutting, labor infringement or wildlife habitat depletion. A frequently overlooked choice is metal cabinetry. St Charles is one company offering all steel cabinetry made from 70% recycled content and their products are 98% recyclable. Watch for a new display at the International Market Square of St Charles Cabinetry. Cabinetry isn’t just green because of its exterior material, either. Crystal Cabinetry offers a material for their cabinet boxwork (the behind the scenes portion) called GreenCore, which is made from a resin that isn’t formaldehyde based. This means the cabinetry won’t off-gas formaldehyde into your home, which we’re hearing more and more about as a cause of asthma and chemical sensitivities.

If you have any questions on anything I’ve mentioned, don’t hesitate to contact one of the award-winning designers at Partners 4, Design in Suite 109 at the International Market Square. If you happen to be in the area, stop in to see our Green display kitchen, with Lyptus GreenCore cabinetry, recycled quartz counters and a functional induction cooktop and steam oven.

Partners 4, Design, 612-927-4444, www.partners4design.com

Cosmos Reinvents the Meal

Speed, good communication, focus, and creativity – that’s what makes a great chef. Add Locust gum, a vacuum sealer, dried black garlic, and a Swedish accent – and you’ve got Hakan Lundberg, the culinary artist and Chef de Cuisine at Cosmos Restaurant in the Graves 601 Hotel. He’s even been called a magician.



Cosmos, a Four-Diamond Restaurant in downtown Minneapolis, prides itself on its quality ingredients, intriguing menu selection, cutting edge presentation and creative plating. This is no surprise, given that its chefs constantly seek new ideas through food blogs, stay after hours to experiment with new culinary ideas, and are dedicated enough to plan an herb garden on the hotel’s roof.

The concept that makes Cosmos distinct sounds a bit scary, but we must pay it a visit - molecular gastronomy. (Stay with me, I’m not going to give you a science lesson.) Molecular gastronomy is a method of cooking that has nearly transcended the notion of traditional cooking. Ultimately, molecular gastronomy is a combination of art and science, even though you won’t find the chefs trading in their whites for lab coats, hovering over solutions, which would eventually become a reduction sauce. It’s a process of taking ingredients, and changing their shape, consistency, and texture with various compounds, mixtures, and methods. (If you’re really interested, watch this video.)



Similar to Chicago’s Alinea and, arguably the hottest restaurant in the world, el Bulli, (rumor has it they are booked for the next 3 years), the chefs at Cosmos reinvent ingredients by creating things like pineapple noodles, celery terrine, exploding lingonberries, and edamame sheets. Frothers, foams, compressions, and vacuum sealing are usually involved in the mix. Molecular gastronomy turns food into an art medium that stimulates the mind as easily as the palate.

The kitchen at Cosmos puts all of the gruff imagery associated with chefs at bay - those that bad-boy chef Anthony Bourdain would love us to believe. Not only does Lundberg manage the execution of well-planned menu items, he has created a kitchen culture in which chefs actually like to come to work, play their own version of Top Chef together (hence, their ‘Spam Off’), where customers are invited to dine IN the kitchen, and a 20-year-old line cook learns the ropes without culinary papers because Lundberg believes in hiring based on attitude versus papers. It’s these details, matched by the culinary details such as rosemary-scented smoke that is captured under a bowl and puffs up when the waiter lifts it and presents you with the lamb bacon, that makes Cosmos so strong and unique.



Chef Lundberg wants each plate leaving the kitchen to look mysteriously sexy. Interesting plating intrigues the diner, inviting them to be more present in their eating experience, he said. Matching cold items with hot, and crispy with soft, the chefs never stack the food on-purpose because it eliminates the option to eat it all at once. This way, the diner can follow a trail, or make their own mixtures so each bite will taste different.

Don’t let the Four-Diamond Restaurant label mislead you about the prices - a 3 course tasting menu is comparable to a large dinner at any steakhouse in town. More than food-costs themselves, value is added through the experience of the chefs and the attention to detail they put into your sensory experience at Cosmos. Not interested in their new lab experiments? They’ll be glad to flip you a burger.

Reinvention - it’s what we’re all trying to do in these tough financial times. Re-envisioning new futures, new careers – we’ve got to work with what we’ve got. And that’s exactly what Chef Lundberg and his crew are doing at Cosmos, maximizing the use of ingredients by envisioning new twists and nuances to their original uses. Resulting in new sensory experiences for the eyes, nose, mouth, and mind – the food at Cosmos is a refreshing look at the world of possibilities. Maybe these chefs are doing more than giving us foie gras and pineapple noodles and teaching us a thing or two about life.

-Melinda Feucht

restaurant Max at the hotel Minneapolis

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

The hotel Minneapolis has truly grand entrance. A perfect balance of historical charm and modern design makes it memorable. The stately marble columns draw attention to the lofty ceiling height and the garnet red accents pop against the organic materials used for the floors and wainscoting.

The restaurant Max housed the event in the main dining room. Guests admired the stunning custom, ruby-toned light sculpture that hovers above the room of a slightly deeper color red. Tall espresso-colored, contemporary privacy booths ran down the center of the dining room and lined the sides offering ample seating to Sample Circuit guests as they settled in for their first tastes of Chef Kevin Kathman’s sneak preview menu.

Greeted by servers with trays of Duck Confit “Crème Brulee” and Rabbit and Foie Gras Terrine with Celery Root-Apple Slaw on Grilled Bread, guests started the event off right.

Some of the favorite first flavors were the Cauliflower Panna Cotta with Sevruga Caviar and a Little Brioche on polished stainless spoons – one perfect bite, the two soups, Asparagus Soup with White Truffle Cream and Sweet Pepper Soup with Basil Cream, beautifully presented and piping hot, and Salmon Tartar with Wasabi Emulsion, Wakame Seaweed and Crisp Tarro Root – salty, savory deliciousness.

Cauliflower Panna Cotta with Sevruga Caviar and a Little Brioche
Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Rabbit and Foie Gras Terrine with Celery Root-Apple Slaw on Grilled Bread
Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

But that was just the beginning, Chef Kathman and his team created an amazing spread of entrees. The Lamb Breast with Porcini Stuffing, Polenta and Thyme Infused Jus almost makes a person pray for the brisk autumn air, the perfect complement to such richness. Also among the offerings were the Lobster “Mac n’ Cheese”, Carolina Style Smoked Pork Shoulder with Mustard Sauce, Slaw and White Bread, and the Red Wine Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Potato, Green Bean and Crispy Onion. One dish that it seemed everyone in the room was buzzing about was the Miso Marinated Sea Bass with Smashed Parsnips and a Shiitake Salad a delicious tour of the flavors sweet, salt and earth.

Lobster “Mac n’ Cheese”

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Carolina Style Smoked Pork Shoulder with Mustard Sauce, Slaw and White Bread

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Red Wine Braised Short Ribs with Horseradish Potato, Green Bean and Crispy Onion

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Miso Marinated Sea Bass with Smashed Parsnips and a Shiitake Salad

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Ketel One and restaurant Max mixologists pour the “Max Cosmo” the light, sweet flavor was an excellent apertief.

Z Wines USA poured wines perfectly paired with the menu. The Heron’s Nest Un-Oaked Chardonnay paired perfectly with the Salmon Tartare.

Lehmann Farms was present, pouring tastes their famous Peppadew Bloody Mary finished with the guests choice of their gourmet garnishes. My personal favorite was the Hot Pickled Brussels Sprouts.

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Chef Kevin Kathman

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Even though several of our guests had visited the restaurant before, it somehow seemed to be filled with a new energy, a new excitement. Chef Kathman has already made a mark in the short time that he had been at the helm. With his new menu launching later this fall – I highly recommend paying him and restaurant Max a visit. The evening seemed to end too soon – now that it’s September, the sun is setting earlier and when we walked out to the night air it was already dark. It is the best time of year to dine in this great state with a plethora of local harvest foods available and a culinary artist such as Chef Kathman - you can’t go wrong.

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography

Photo by Chris Bohnhoff Photography